Expressing the quintessence of its joyful style, Pomellato unveils La Gioia, the brand’s historic first High Jewelry collection. Shining with brilliant combinations of gems and colors, in sensual golden volumes, and with avant-garde techniques, the distinctive jewels of La Gioia di Pomellato define the unconventionality and passion of Milanese design. Pomellato’s personality is exquisitely magnified in La Gioia pieces, each telling the brand’s unique story by exemplifying its iconic style and masterful savoir-faire.
Entirely unconventional in its design, Pomellato has filled a niche by offering women jewels that are at once powerful, creative, and free. Since it was founded in Milan in 1967, the brand’s innovative “prêt-à-porter jewels” revolutionized the historically conservative field of jewelry. Pomellato thereby became known for dusting off the old-fashioned idea of jewelry-creation to reveal the shine of a new era.
In 2020, Pomellato evolves into the world of High Jewelry, launching its first High Jewelry collection of 165 pieces. “La Gioia di Pomellato truly expresses who we are – our deepest identity – and Pomellato is not an elitist jeweler,” said Sabina Belli, Pomellato CEO. This collection reflects the Italian art of living, where one does not make a distinction between everyday jewelry and ceremonial jewelry, between the jewels that one wears and those that one leaves in the vault. In Italy, beauty is not to be feared, it is to be revered! ”
In this spirit, the creation of High Jewelry necklaces, rings, bracelets, and earrings was entrusted to the same craftsmen who develop all the lines of jewelry for the Maison. Their savoir-faire and quality are exampled daily at the Casa Pomellato workshop, where one-hundred in-house goldsmiths design, hand-carve, and hand-set the jewels, from start to finish.
THE SPIRIT OF THE COLLECTION
La Gioia creations carry the most iconic Pomellato signatures in their design: a love for color and for out-of-the-ordinary gemstones, a penchant for gourmette chains, and extra-large links, and a true mastery of irregular gem settings, always carefully hand-carved.
For La Gioia, Pomellato does not invent a new story but rather celebrates its own. Pomellato sublimates its unique emblems of style to create a fantastic reinterpretation. “Our DNA is what nourishes the inspiration of our High Jewelry,” explains Vincenzo Castaldo, the Creative Director of the brand. “We reinvent our iconic Nudo rings, the Tango chain, Ritratto’s mineral stones, but meanwhile we maintain a balance between masterful craftsmanship and the audacity of a creation. La Gioia speaks in the Pomellato language but in an even more unrestrained, more reckless, more sophisticated way. In this collection, the High Jewelry pieces act as our veritable protagonists: the stars of Pomellato design.”
By creating these ultimate examples of its aesthetic vision, Pomellato reveals the creative elements its pieces are borne of artisanal craftsmanship, the inspiration of joy and color, and the vivacious nature of its very Italian story.
LA GIOIA DI POMELLATO HIGHLIGHTS
Gourmette Caméléon, Gourmette Assoluta
The love story between Pomellato and chains dates back to the end of the 1960s. While the era called established patterns of society into question, the brand seized upon this revolutionary symbolism to master gold links – freeing them from the jewelry tradition’s rigidity. By working chains in an asymmetrical, sensual and ergonomic fashion, Pomellato reinvented the gourmette into a voluptuous, distinctive Pomellato style.
For 2020, Pomellato pushes its chains to the limit in a new precious creation. Gourmette Caméléon is a choker of pure magic, and each of its 29 gold links is set with a gradation of multicolored gemstones. From fir green to Malabar pink, from cerulean blue to daffodil yellow, the colors of sapphires, emeralds, tourmalines, spinels, tsavorites, garnets, rubies, tanzanite, aquamarines, topaz, and diamonds have been chosen and arranged according to the subtlety of their nuances. Requiring nearly 200 hours of work to create, the piece’s gourmette chain shines like a ‘rainbow’ – a symbol of hope. This colorful emblem is to represent the common solidarity that exists between every being, an important notion in modern times.
In the same spirit of love, Gourmette Assoluta is a choker of oversized gold links set with almost 3,000 diamonds. Pomellato dreamed up two versions: one shimmering in white diamonds on white gold, the other in cognac diamonds on pink gold for a soft glow. Paired by earrings in cognac with diamond dégradé, two raspberry rubellite cabochons enhance the jewels’ color. Gourmette Assoluta is also interpreted as a racy choker in resplendent diamonds. A combination of pink and white gold, it is punctuated by five peridot cabochons. A true statement piece, it is paired perfectly by voluptuous diamond and peridot earrings.
Nudo Collier Cascade, Nudo Collier Plastron
Inspired by the Nudo collection, Pomellato’s most iconic design, the new Nudo necklaces feature irresistible ‘naked’ gems vibrating with the slightest movement.
A clever double-sided cut reinforces the density of the stones in Nudo Collier but it also gives them a fluidity – almost as if they were rolled onto the skin like pebbles eroded by the sea.
With echoes of baroque design in its majestic splendor, NudoCascade is composed of a necklace and earrings with chandelier links, swinging with the grace of the neck. In pink gold hand-set with diamonds, the first necklace is an ode to white, in frosted topazes lined with iridescent mother-of-pearl. As for the second, it has been enhanced with peridots and white topazes, sublimated with the joy of intense green tsavorites.
In a neo-renaissance style, NudoPlastron is designed with draped gold chains and colored stones. For its innovative gem pairing, Pomellato regales its talent, combining light and dark topazes together as if to create a sky that is at once clear and yet dotted with clouds.
Imagining a more incandescent version of Pomellato genius, the master jeweler stages cognac diamonds with white topazes and pyrope garnets into five rows of flamboyant rose gold.
For a final act, the Milanese Maison rolls out a NudoPlastron necklace encapsulating all the colors of creation. The deep blue of topaz, the moss green of peridot, the lilac of amethyst, the orange of mandarin garnet, the raspberry of tourmaline, the bright yellow of lemon quartz and the iridescent pink of the rhodolite are celebrated in a joyful explosion of precious color.
In rich monochrome tones as wearable for daytime as for a night, Pomellato creates the ultimate harmony for High Jewelry design to achieve.
The IconicaChoker encrusted with diamonds is remarkably minimalistic in its structure, yet with an incredible resplendence that required 226 hours to create. Its solid circle of pink gold is paved with a handset gradience of 1,706 white diamonds for a tactile perfection. The fineness of its stone-settings is such that when touched, the gold seems to be almost covered with a silky skin: it feels as if it were literally diamond-coated.
For the ring to pair, it is formed of an organic shape that gratifies the hypnotic 8-carat brown diamond at its center. Nestled upon an opulent bed of gray-brown diamonds, each has been chosen for their subtlety of warm brown nuance. The pieces celebrate three levels of preciousness; bare pink gold and brown and white diamonds.
The Sabbia parure consists of a collar for the neck and a flexible cuff bracelet, their gold mesh body shaped by hand. Pomellato reinterprets this collection’s golden mesh by setting Sabbia diamond discs on its noble metal. In shades of white, cognac, and black, the diamonds give the jewels a tactile new dimension. The contrast between the cusp of the pink gold mesh and the fullness of the pavé requires that these sensual contemporary pieces are created by the complex savoir-faire of the Maison – a mastery that has become a well-kept secret over generations by expert in-house goldsmiths.
To complement the set, a dramatic pair of drop pendant earrings is set with diamond petrissage, and two between-the-finger rings are adorned with resplendent monochrome diamonds.
For Sabbia of Tahiti, precious pearl spheres round off on three models of exquisite refinement, incorporating both gold and diamonds. With true glamour, the jeweler sculpts this Y-shaped necklace to fall from a row of Tahitian pearls, dropping with a pink-gold chain. As a pendant, a circular swarm of white, cognac, and black diamonds is hand-set with irregular sertissage. Pomellato crafts clip earrings and a double finger ring for the collection.
The Pomellato style has its own vocabulary, in which the pavé gemstone has a special place. Often sculpted of diamonds, at Pomellato the jeweler innovates upon this technique by using colored stones. Pavé Sabbia is a vibrant tribute to the collection’s organic shapes, composed of a long two-pendant necklace, a ring, and clip earrings. For Pavé Sabbia Flamingo, a pink gold setting reflects the perfect foundation for a jewel of multi-tone pink sapphires and glowing rubies.
Of seven different sizes, Sabbia’s pavé gems are mounted irregularly into a gradient of colors to create a striking ombré effect. With such meticulous care, Pomellato is able to obtain truly tactile sensations. Its High Jewelry pieces are exquisite, as in the generously flat ring, or the disc earrings that infuse their pink halo swirl on the skin. For Pavé Sabbia Peacock, emeralds with white and cognac diamonds are worked into a gradient, asymmetric setting on white gold. The long necklace demonstrates this striking approach with an undulating chain holding two pendants, in green au relief, that resounds with precious musicality at the slightest movement.
With the bright hues of cherry, the seeming taste of mint-flavored water, and the aroma of hydrangea, Pomellato sprinkles a gourmet luminosity into Rivière jewels: three brilliant sets of High Jewelry necklaces, rings, and earrings. Each set celebrates a unique color, glorified by a sleek design to highlight the stones’ particular flourish. Rivière Grenat expresses itself with a deep red accent in order to punctuate the asymmetry of its rose gold choker. The beauty of its rare pyrope garnet is complemented by clusters of cognac diamonds. Rivière Péridot Menthe illuminates the bright almond green of its stones, as their bluish undertones are in fact unusual within the peridot family. The jeweler sets the dramatic scene in a ring, set with three gems of precious small turf tsavorites. Rivière Péridot Absinthe shines a warmer green with aniseed reflections. Here once again, Pomellato selected peridots of remarkable quality, their brilliance particularly evident in the masterful earrings set with brown diamonds.
Since its founding, Pomellato has been a pioneer of jewelry-creation and its approach to gemstones. Today the tradition continues as the Maison celebrates colored and mineral stones that before were neglected or undiscovered, now seen as the new examples of preciousness. As such, Mineralismo Pomellato reinterprets the raw aesthetics of mineral stones, as their abundant colors form veritable art pieces, painted by Mother Nature. Rhodonite, characterized by its pink flesh mottled with black, is clasped by the famed Pomellato claws set with black diamonds and pink sapphires. Earth and jewel contrast with the simple rose gold torque of the necklace of three hard stones, embellished by an elongated, sharp claw design that recalls the powerful tail of a scorpion. As for the Amazonite piece, its celadon green with golden points is enhanced by a setting of white diamonds and Paraiba tourmaline. Perfect under a tuxedo jacket or over a men’s white shirt, the agate necklace and cuff are striped with gray bands. Held in place by claws paved with white diamonds, this piece works to gratify the silhouette of absolute chic. Ultimately, the Mineralismo necklaces and bracelets are also interpreted in green malachite, in brown tiger’s eye, in bluish turquoise and imported lapis lazuli.